The Galápagos Islands

Monday 28th February 2011
An early start saw us heading to Quito airport to catch our flight to the Galapagos Islands.

To get to the Islands there are special things you need to do first in the airport. You only find out about these at the last minute so after a trip to scan our bags and another to buy (for $10) our landing card, we were rushed through security to sit and wait for over an hour.

The flight was with AeroGal, stopping in Guayaquil to pick up some extra passengers. James was particularly happy as legroom was plentiful. It was nice flying during the day for once, with the views over and around Quito particularly interesting.

Our home for 7 nights.

We reached our boat early afternoon in time for lunch. Judging by our first couple of meals we won't be going hungry here! Every group on the Islands has to have a guide. Ours is Mauricio and as you'd expect he's very knowledgeable. After our first briefing we headed onto a small island next to St Cristobal, to see our first wildlife. Marine Iguanas, Blue Footed Boobies and sea turtles swimming under the water were amongst the wildlife spotted. It took a while for us to get used to seeing the iguanas swim!

A pair of 'boobies'.

A little later we had our first snorkelling trip, just off the same island, hoping to see some turtles. James saw one from a distance but I think the number of people scared them away.

In the evening, after meeting the crew and being briefed on the next day's activities, we were able to spend an hour in the town on St Cristobal. The main highlight was seeing all the sea lions resting up. The males can be territorial so you get lots of noise from them, not to mention a bad smell.

Lazy sea lions.

Back on the boat we attempted a spot of star gazing but it would help if we knew what we were doing (Carrie, we needed you). More to be done over the next couple if days.

Wildlife spotted today (that we can remember and name):
Sea lions - all ages
Blue Footed Boobies
Sea turtles
Puffer fish
Marine Iguanas
Darwin Finches
Sting Rays
Eagle Rays
Crabs (that can jump!)

Tuesday 1st March 2011
After a night sail of about 4hrs, we woke up to the sight of the eastern end of Espanola island (Gardner Bay) our first trip to an uninhabited island.

It's an early start here with breakfast at 7am and onto the dingy for 8:15. A bell is rung every time you are needed. We spent the first day being late and rushed for every bell so we have since tried to be more organised.

We headed to shore for our first wet landing, strolling along the white, flour like, sandy beach spotting more wildlife. The highlights were the Galapagos Hawk, a multicoloured Marine Iguana and some baby sea lions feeding on their mothers. The male iguanas are particularly colourful this time of the year with green patches as it's mating season and they need to show off to catch female attention.

More lazy sea lions.

We then went snorkelling from the beach, seeing lots of fish, our first proper view of a sea turtle but sadly no sharks.

After lunch we sailed round to the western end to Suarez Point, talking a walk to see a load more wildlife. Particular favourites were the baby Naska Boobies. It was really hot during the walk. Learning point: We need to put on sunscreen more often! Back on the boat there was time to jump off the boat and swim in the bay. All was good, although there was a hairy moment when a sea lion nearly bit off one of our fellow traveller's toes.

Further briefings, dinner, a beer and some star gazing rounded off the night. Orion's Belt was prominent and with the help of Michelle (another cruise companion who kindly puts up with James at the dinner table), we were able to see the Southern Cross at the end of the Milky Way.

Wildlife spotted today (that we can remember and name):
Sea lions
Marine Iguanas with red marking and green marking
Galapagos Hawk
Sea turtle
Sting Rays
Darwin Finches
Surgeon Fish
Reef Cornetfish
Crabs
Naska Boobies
Cactus Finch
Swallow Tailed Gull
Galapagos Dove
Blue footed boobies
Lava Lizard - red marking
Tiger Snake Eel, dead, thrown up by sea lion!

Interesting fact:
There's an island here called Pinta Island (Abingdon Island in English). We kid you not! It was named by pirates so one obviously had links with Abingdon.
Turtles hold their breath for 2 minutes normally and up to 5 hours when sleeping.

Wednesday 2nd March 2011
Today we are at Floriana Island in the south of the Galapagos. We took breakfast at Cormorant Point and at 8am we set off to shore for a walk.

On the beach we saw a herons, penguins and turtles swimming. Also, a few baby sharks close to the shore which Mauricio said was quite unique. A little further behind the bay a lagoon had a couple of flamingos. There would often be more but the food is scarce so they go elsewhere.

Soon after we were back on the boat and heading off to Devil's Crown Rock for our first snorkelling of the day. This was brilliant. After the disappointments of yesterday we got to see some big Black Tipped Sharks and some huge starfish along with loads of other great fish. The current was really strong so by lunch we were ready for a rest.

James manhandling a local.

Today some teams from all the boats were playing beach soccer. A few from our boat played, including James who was magnificent in goal. An England call up is not out of the question! Andrea (who captains a women's team in Switzerland, thought James was better than David James, although we're not sure how much of a complement that is. Emma sat on the sidelines as head/only cheerleader.

We stayed on the beach and did some more snorkelling, this time in shallower waters. More sea turtles were spotted. The beach in question is called Post Office Bay. There's no actual post office, just a box with postcards people have left. The idea is you leave one and you take one that's close to your home and hand deliver. We left two cards, one for Harry and Izzy, the other for Emma's mum. We're intrigued to see if and when they get there. The tradition dates back a couple of hundred years to whalers who used to use it for their mail.

As you expect, despite plenty of sunscreen, hats etc, the two Brits (or Limeys as Leonard from Alaska calls us) are looking redder than everyone else on our multicultural cruise. You won't hear us complain.

Wildlife spotted today (that we can remember and name):
Blue Chin Parrotfish
Mexican Hogfish
Cortez Rainbow Wrasses
Yellowtail, Yellowfin, Gold Rimmed Surgeon Fish
King Angel Fish
Concentric Puffer Fish
Sabertooth Blenny
Snapper
Blue Banded Goby

Interesting fact:
There is currently no tourist cap in these Islands. 20 years ago it was capped at 60000, but last year 173000 visited, with the top 3 nations being Ecuador, the USA and the UK. Maurico expects a cap in future, maybe around the 250000 mark. Tourism is the biggest industry here and locals have recently started opening their homes to guests, which would be a great place to stay.

Thursday 3rd March 2011
Today was spent around Isabella, the largest of the Islands. The size is helped by the 5 active volcanos that make up the island, the most recent of which erupted around 2 years ago.

The trip here was 4 hours from Floriana. First up we headed just off the mainland to Tintoreas Island, which looked like a mini Jurassic Park with loads of Marine Iguanas and Frigate Birds flying overhead looking for eggs to eat. Formed from volcanic rock, it was unbearably hot at 9am. We were all quite glad to leave after 15mins or so. The small dingy ride allowed us the chance to spot some penguins sitting on some rocks. These little fellows are slightly bigger than the Fairy Penguins in Aus, but not by much, being the 2nd smallest penguins in the world.

We headed to shore at Villamil to our first breeding centre of the trip. On the way we saw some flamingos eating, looking nice and pink from the shrimp they eat. Apparently they feed for eight hours a day and can stand on one leg for up to five hours before having to switch. Standing on one leg helps to make a faster getaway from predators.

Feeding time for the babies.

There's been a real issue with maintaining the tortoise populations on the Islands, especially keeping the various species going (on Isabella alone there are 5 different species of tortoise). Pirates and whalers all but wiped out several species making tortoises extinct on some of the Islands, but breeding programmes are now proving successful with hundreds of teenage tortoises being released back into their native lands. We arrived just in time to see a large male having his way with what looked a reluctant female.

After lunch, more snorkelling, including lots of rays and some shrimps eating skin off James's arm. Apparently this is normal.

The evening was spent on deck chatting with our fellow passengers and star gazing. We feel very fortunate to have such a great mix of people on board.

Wildlife spotted today (that we can remember and name):
Sea lions
Shrimps
Sting Rays
Sea Turtles
Pufferfish - large variety
Mexican Hogfish
Bumphead Parrotfish
Blue-chin Parrotfish
Striped Mullet

Friday 4th March 2011
Our 5th day was a little sad in some respects. Of the 14 others on the boat, this was to be the last day for all but 1. A very friendly group and we were really sad to see them leave, only hoping the replacements would be equally as interesting company. With some of them  heading for an flight, we had a rather silly early start to allow us to see some tortoises in the wild. Today's Island was Santa Cruz, the most populated island with around 33000 inhabitants. We set off to a remote farm in the highlands and saw several large tortoises, mainly just sitting in big puddles. They can sit like this for up to 3 or 4 weeks and can survive without food or water for up to a year. As you'll imagine, taking photos was not a challenge with the only moving target being Emma.

Taking a bath.

Having waved our goodbyes to the departing, we headed to the main town, Punta Ayora to have a look around. This was without doubt the main shopping centre on the islands, but we were still all done within 30 mins or so.

In the afternoon we were joined by 5 new passengers. One lady in particular frustrated us as her first question to everyone was 'how much did you pay?' and despite her paying the least, she still continued to complain.

Can you spot Lonesome George?

The highlight of the afternoon was a visit the breeding centre here. The highlight is Lonesome George, a tortoise from Pinta Island (Abingdon island) who was the only one to be found. It's a sad story as it basically means his particular species cannot continue. Lonesome George is a symbol for the Islands and catches lots of attention. In an effort to at least try to reintroduce tortoises back onto Pinta Island they put 2 females in with him. 25 years on and this hasn't been successful so they've put a new female from a different species in. Fingers crossed.

In the evening 2 more passengers turned up, a late swap from another boat. This took our number to 10 and it did feel as if we were rattling around the ship a little.

Saturday 5th March 2011
A couple of Islands on the agenda today and a chance for the ship to stock up on food and fuel.

Not a marine iguana.

The first stop was North Seymour and a walk on the island. We were worried we may not get on land due to the sheer number of ships and dingies around. This is obviously a popular spot. We got our best view yet of the male Frigate Bird wooing females with his bright red chest all puffed out and saw a great standoff between a couple of male land iguanas fighting for territory. With our new group we also witnessed a certain lady who didn't seem to want to stick by the rules (randomly walking off, getting too close to the animals, etc). It all added a bit of fun for us but frustration for our guide.

Looking for a mate.

James tries his best.

Back in the water we saw most of the usual suspects, but the highlights were about a dozen sleeping sharks, some great starfish with bright red spots and a jelly fish with loads of eggs. We've learned to stick closely to our guide as he's great at hunting out the best sights when snorkelling and this was no exception.

After lunch and refuelling we headed to Bartolome Island off Santiago. The highlight here is being able to walk up a now dormant volcano to see the views around. It's supposed to be close to what mars is like and we wouldn't be surprised.

We aren't superimposed, honest.

More good food in the evening from our chef 'My Black' (his own nickname) and we were ready to sail to our last new island.

Wildlife spotted today (that we can remember and name):
Frigate Birds
Blue Footed Boobies
Land Iguanas
Swallow Tailed Gulls
Penguins
Black Striped Salema
Moorish Idols
Reef Cornetfish
Yellowfin Surgeon Fish
Guineafowl Puffer
King Angel Fish
Blunthead Triggerfish
White Tipped Shark
Galapagos Shark
Jellyfish with eggs
Striped Mullet
Galapagos Garnet Eels

Sunday 6th March 2011
This was our penultimate day and also the island furthest from any others. Through the night we experienced the choppiest water yet, with at least one person on the ship being ill. It meant that we had our worst night's sleep, but still managed a good 6 hours.

We spent the day around Genovesa, on the north eastern edge of the Islands. The ship docked in the crater of a long dormant volcano. Luckily there is a 100m gap to allow boats in and out.

Being so far away there were far fewer boats here, only 1 more in fact in Darwin Bay which made our first walk really enjoyable. We felt very lucky to visit this island.

To get on land we had to use the Prince Philip steps, named after our prince who once visited and is a great supporter of the Islands.

The walk allowed us to see Red Footed Boobies for the first time along with the stunning sight of a short ear owl devouring its recent catch. For the second time we got to see the Nazca Boobie and this time they were being very romantic, pairing up, giving sticks and pecking each other. We also saw some sitting on their eggs.

Madly in love.

Back on the boat we were quickly into our snorkelling gear for more swimming. Within minutes we were confronted by 5 hammerhead sharks. Not dangerous to us, but up close we were still slightly nervous. The longest one was 4m. More sea turtles and loads of other fish rounded off the morning.

After more walking and snorkelling in the afternoon, we were back on the boat at 3pm to set off for San Cristibal and our flight home.

It was a pretty rough crossing on a small boat so most people spent much of the rest of the day on deck. It settled down about 9pm and we were finally able to get to our cabins for a good sleep.

Wildlife spotted today (that we can remember and name):
Red Footed Boobie
Nazca Boobies - couples
Swallow Tailed Gulls
Short Ear Owls
Fur Seal
Sea lions
Hammerhead Sharks
Sea turtles

Monday 7th March 2011
One last breakie and we were taken to shore for the last time and our last tour. The final visit was to the San Cristobal Interpretation Center to learn about the history of the Islands. Ideally it would be good to know this earlier but better late than never. We were not surprised to find out that various countries have laid claim to the Islands in the past including the US and UK.

After a little wait in the stupidly hot airport, we were back on our way to Quito to continue our trip on land.

We're really glad we stayed for the full 8 days and it was worth every penny. The cruise may not be for everyone and if you don't like heat and snorkelling, you'd not enjoy it. Luckily for you all we've got about 500 photos to run through on our return so you won't feel you're missing out. :)

An amazing Galapagos sunset.